Moldova
Moldova or Moldavia as it is officially known in English is not the first stop on most people's tourist itinerary. This small landlocked country of just over 4 million people is virtually unknown to the outside world. When I came to for a (never-to-be) business meeting in Chisinau (pronounced kishy-now) I wasn't sure quite what to expect.
The travel agent who sold me the ticket, strangely advised me several times to abandon my plans and go somewhere else. Most of my friends and acquaintances were confused just as to where it was that I was going to in the first place.
On several occasions I was asked if I was worried about getting malaria while in Africa, I was also chastised for making up the name of a fake country to protect my anonymity and questioned if the idea to come to Moldova came to me after hearing about it in a Marx Brothers movie.
By now, you might be wondering, just where in the world is Moldova? It is not, as it's former makeshift tourism board claims a place where you can "spend a varnishing day in the center of Europe." (whatever the heck that means) Rather, it is about as far east as you can get in Europe.
This former Soviet member country is named after the providence of Moldavia located in Romania of which most of it used to be a part.
I will never forget the first time my plane landed at the Chisinau International Airport. The small commuter plane I had taken from Vienna touched ground and my first view of Moldova on an overcast day was of old Russian-style tanks, soldiers, and guard dogs. I thought perhaps I had accidentally boarded a Con-Air flight.
I confess that I was like a fish-out-of water the entire time during my intended two week stay. Since my original hosts had never showed up, I was totally on my own. I was baffled by the multiplicity of languages spoken.
Although barely the size of my home state of Maryland (also abbreviated MD and at about the same longitude - about where the similarities end) there were no less then 4 languages commonly spoken: Moldovan (a dialect of Romanian), Russian, Ukrainian and Gagauzian. I was stopped on the street a number of times and asked the time in the Moldovan language and responded Ya ne gavaru pa rusky. "I do not speak Russian." Got a lot of strange looks. I ordered "alphabet soup" but later discovered that it was a mistranslation for "tongue soup." Trust me, bye the way, alphabet soup is better. Much better.
This small country, that I had never heard of before, is in fact three different countries in one. The southern half is the Republic of Gagauzia, where Christianized Turks had settled years ago. They are recognized by the Moldovan government and seem to be at peace with them.
Then there is the self-proclaimed Republic of Transdniestria,perhaps the most surreal place on earth. On my visit there (in which my friend and I were rescued in a special mission from the US Embassy - this is another story) we saw what could only be described as a living museum to the Soviet Union. Statues of Lenin were being put up before our eyes, bread lines were long, and we were ticketed for looking the wrong way when crossing the street.
All of that being said, I thought I had saw all I needed of this "Moldovan trinity" for one lifetime. I had my bags packed and was ready for home, sweet home. However, I was soon to discover that I would have been making a colossal mistake.
There was something that I had overlooked. There was something important that I had missed during my two week tour of this fascinatingly "other" country.
Moldova has no coastline. Moldova has no mountains. Moldova does not possess a year-round pleasant climate. Moldova requires a $60 minimum visa for entry and can't seem to set up a stable government . Yet, with all of this taken into consideration, I just can't stop returning to this place! I consider it one of the best kept secrets on earth, in fact. And, I am not alone.
What is it that I had almost overlooked that continues to draw me to Moldova?
It could be the wine that keeps me coming back. After all, much of Moldova is a steppe to the Carpathian Mountain range, possessing the perfect soil for wine production. Moldova produces a variety of excellent wines (which sold in London pubs in Soviet days for about $125 a bottle) that sell for less than the price of a bottle of Coca Cola in local grocery stores. It is also home to the world's largest underground wine cellars at "Cricova." A whole underground world, it's registers in at a whopping 60 square kilometers in size, with streets named after famous wines and medieval style tasting rooms. It is a must for any wine connoisseur. So, is the annual Wine Festival every autumn, organized in conjunction with the Moldovan State, which offers foreign visitors free visas during the time of the festival.
A well-guarded legend, published here for the first time, is that Hawaiian singer Don Ho, who came to Moldova to perform a concert, became so tipsy
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