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Спальный гарнитур
1/12th Scale Mission Style Bedroom Furniture
- Bed: 7" long, 5 1/2" wide, 3 3/4" high
- Night Table: 2 1/4" wide, 1 5/8" deep, 2 1/8" high
- Chest of Drawers: 3" wide, 1 7/8" deep, 4 3/8" high
- Chair: 1 3/4" wide, 1 3/4" deep, 3 1/4" high
- Table: 1 3/4" wide, 1 3/4" deep, 2 1/8" high
Instructions for Individual Pieces of Furniture:
General Instructions for all 5 pieces of Furniture
Materials List for all 5 pieces of furniture:
Lumber (Basswood or hardwood if it is available)
| Lumber | Quantity | Lumber | Quantity | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1/4 x 1/4 | 4 | 1/8 x 1 | 1 | |||
| 1/4 x 3/4 | 1 | 1/8 x 3 | 2 | |||
| 1/8 x 1/8 | 3 | 1/16 x 1/4 | 1 | |||
| 1/8 x 3/8 | 1 | 1/16 x 3/4 | 1 | |||
| 1/8 x 1/2 | 3 | 1/16 x 2 | 1 | |||
| 1/8 x 3/4 | 1 |
Other materials:
- Crown moulding (around 4 inches) 1/8 inch deep by at least 1/4 inch tall
- 14 Drawer pulls (2 for night table, 12 for chest of drawers)
- Wood stain
- Carpenters' Yellow Glue and/or 5 Minute Epoxy
- Varnish or wax
- 1" thick foam for mattress
- Fabric for bedding
Tools needed:
- Ruler
- Straight edge (can use ruler, if it is straight :-) and has a metal edge )
- X-Acto knife
- Miter box and saw
- Sandpaper, 280 grit and finer.
- Paintbrush for applying stain and varnish
- Toothpicks for applying glue
- Clamps (can use clothes pins and rubberbands, or pins and pieces of scrap wood)
- Gluing jig (optional)
- Drill and small drill bit (to drill holes for the drawer pulls)
General Instructions for Mission Style Bedroom Furniture
Suggestions for easier assembly:
- These pieces of furniture were designed so that the width of the pieces can be cut from readily available dimensional basswood. Some pieces will need to be trimmed down to size. For example, one drawer side measures 5/8 inch high by 1 inch long by 1/8 inch thick. The drawer side is cut from a piece of 3/4 x 1/8 inch lumber, and is trimed from 3/4 down to 5/8 inch tall.
-
Many of the pieces are cut from 3 x 1/8 inch lumber. Plan ahead for how you want the pieces to be cut from the wood so that fewer cuts need to be made. I sketched a cutting diagram before cut the wood. (see below) For the narrow pieces, I was able to make cross cuts across the width of the lumber, then was able to cut the pieces to the correct width. (Notice the Chest sides and Chest shelves on the cutting diagram.)
- This cutting diagram is just a guide. Each piece of wood is different. Some pieces have a pronounced grain line, others are rather plain. Cut out the pieces to take advantage of the more interesting wood grains.
- Sand the surfaces of all of the pieces of lumber before cutting any pieces. It is easier to handle a piece of wood that is 24 inches long, rather than one that is 1/2 inch long.
- After cutting out the pieces, I prefer to stain all of the pieces before gluing them together. The items can be glued first, then stained, but if any glue gets on the surface of the wood, the stain will not absorb into the wood.
- Stain all sides of the piece of wood, even if some surfaces will not show. Staining all sides at the same time will keep the piece from warping while the stain dries.
- Some parts will need to be sanded during assembly to make them fit. An example is a drawer front. The dimensions given for the pieces are for the piece before sanding. If the drawer front is not sanded, there will be no gap between the edges of the drawer front and the piece of furniuture. The amount of sanding the parts will require will depend on the type of finish that is applied to the finished piece of furniture. A coat or two of varnish or paint will make the piece bigger.
Mission Style Bed
Overall dimensions: 7" long, 5 1/2" wide, 3 3/4" high
Assembly Instructions:
Cut out and sand all of the pieces of wood. Stain all the pieces of wood. Let dry. Sand again, with very fine sandpaper.
[288x72] Headboard:
Glue the headboard spindles between one top rail and bottom rail, spacing the spindles according to the diagram.
Hint: Place the rails flat on a level surface and place a piece of scrap 1/16 inch-thick wood between them. Lay the spindles over the scrap lumber. This will center the 1/8 inch-thick spindles on the 1/4 inch-thick rails.
Hint: Placing scrap pieces of 1/8" x 1/8" wood between the spindles while gluing helps keep the spindles evenly spaced.
Glue the legs to the sides of the headboard. Make sure the tops of the legs are flush with the top of the upper rail.
Footboard:
Repeat the same process as used for the headboard.
Side Rails and Mattress Supports:
Glue the three mattress supports between the side rails. Line up one edge of two of the supports even with the ends of the side rails, and center the third support on the side rails. Do not glue the supports even with the bottom of the rails; place the bottoms of the supports up 1/8 inch from the bottoms of the rails.
Glue the rail/support assembly to the headboard and footboard. The side rails should be the same height as the bottom rails on the headboard and footboard.
Finishing:
Glue the tops to the tops of the headboard and footboard top rails. Be sure to center the tops on the top rails.
Install the decorative brackets by gluing the crown mouldings to the sides of the legs, under the headboard and footboard top rails.
Sand the bottom of the legs, if necessary, so that the bed is level and and does not wobble.
Reapply stain to sanded parts, if necessary.
Varnish the wood, or use your favorite method of finishing the wood.
Cut a piece of 1 inch thick foam 6 1/8 inches long by 4 1/2 wide.
Place the foam mattress on the bed. Decorate with bedding as desired.
Mission Style Night Table
Overall dimensions: 2 1/4" wide, 1 5/8" deep, 2 1/8" high
Assembly Instructions:
Cut out and sand all of the pieces of wood. Stain all the pieces of wood. Let dry. Sand again, with very fine sandpaper.
Glue the trim pieces to the top and bottom of the outer (prettier) surfaces of the sides and back. (See figure 1)
[360x216] Glue the legs to the side pieces, keeping the tops of the legs flush with the tops of the side pieces. The inner side of the side pieces should be flush with the inner side of the legs. (See horizontal cross section in the 'Night Table Details' diagram at the bottom of this page.)
Joining the sides to the back:
Glue one shelf piece to the inside of the back. Keep the top of the shelf flush with the top of the back. Make sure that the top shelf and back are at right angles. (figure 2)
Glue the side pieces to the shelf and back.
Installing the shelves for the drawers:
Glue the two shorter drawer glides to the insides of the nightstand. Make sure that the pieces meet the underside of the top shelf and the inside wall of the back piece. (figure 3).
[216x180] Glue the middle shelf directly under the drawer glides (figure 3).
Glue the two taller drawer glides below the middle shelf.
Glue the front bottom trim piece to the front of the bottom shelf. (figure 4).
Glue the bottom shelf in place.
Trial fit the drawer fronts in the night table. Sand the side and bottom edges, if necessary.
Trial fit the drawer bottoms in the night table. Sand the side edges, if necessary.
Glue the drawer sides to the drawer bottoms by placing the drawer sides on top of the drawer bottoms, keeping the outer edges flush.
Glue the drawer backs to the drawer bottoms, between the drawer sides.
Drill holes for the drawer pulls in the centers of the drawer fronts. Do not glue the pulls to the drawer fronts at this time. (Hint: It is easier to drill the holes while the drawer front can be laid flat. It is also easier to apply the finish to the wood if there is no hardware to work around.)
Glue the drawer fronts to the drawers, centering them horizontally and keeping the bottom of the drawer.
Attach the top of the night table. Keep the back edge flush with the back of the back legs. The top should extend 1/8" beyond the legs along the sides and along the front.
Install the decorative brackets by gluing the crown mouldings to the sides of the legs, under the top of the nightstand.
Sand the bottom of the legs, if necessary, so that the night table is level and and does not wobble.
Reapply stain to sanded parts, if necessary.
Varnish the wood, or use your favorite method of finishing the wood.
Attach the drawer pulls to the drawer fronts.
Mission Style Chest of Drawers
Overall dimensions: 3" wide, 1 7/8" deep, 4 3/8" high
Assembly Instructions:
Cut out and sand all of the pieces of wood. Stain all the pieces of wood. Let dry. Sand again, with very fine sandpaper.
[180x252] Note: The steps of assembly for the Chest of Drawers is the same as for the Night Table, with a few exceptions.
Preparing the sides and back:
Follow the Night Table instructions.
Joining the sides to the back:
Follow the Night Table instructions.
Installing the shelves for the drawers:
Glue the two drawer glides to the insides of the nightstand. Make sure that the pieces meet the underside of the top shelf and the inside wall of the back piece.
Glue one drawer divider to the bottom of the top shelf, making sure that it is centered between the two sides and is aligned at right angles to the back.
Glue a drawer glide to both sides of the drawer divider.
Glue a middle shelf directly under the drawer glides.
Repeat the above for the next set of drawers.
Continue gluing drawer glides and shelves until the bottom of the chest is reached.
Glue the front bottom trim piece to the front of the bottom shelf.
Glue the bottom shelf in place.
Assembling the drawers:
Follow the Night Table instructions, except for the location of the holes for the drawer pulls.
For the four top (narrower) drawers, drill holes in the centers of the drawer fronts for the drawer pulls.
For the four bottom (wider) drawers, drill holes for the drawer pulls, centering the pulls vertically, and locating them the same distance as the distance between the top drawer pulls and the top drawer sides. All of the drawer pulls should be aligned in two vertical rows when the drawers are in place.
Finishing:
Follow the Night Table instructions.
Mission Style Chair and Side Table
Overall dimensions:
- Chair: 1 3/4" wide, 1 3/4" deep, 3 1/4" high
- Table: 1 3/4" wide, 1 3/4" deep, 2 1/8" high
Chair Assembly Instructions:
[432x216] Cut out all pieces of wood.
Trim the back corners of the seat to accomodate the chair back. (See figure 1.)
Sand all of the pieces of wood. Stain all the pieces of wood. Let dry. Sand again, with very fine sandpaper.
Back and Front:
Glue the spindles between the horizontal back pieces as indicated in figure 3. Be sure to center the spindles so that they are located 1/16-inch from the front and back edges of the horizontal pieces.
Glue the horizontal back pieces and the seat supports between the legs, positioning them as indicated in figure 2.
Glue the rungs between the chair legs, positioning them as indicated in figure 3. The chair rungs should be centered on the legs so that the the rungs are 1/16-inch from the fronts and backs of the legs.
Sides:
Glue the side seat supports and side rungs between the legs, keeping them at the same elevation as the supports and rungs on the front and back. (figure 4)
Finishing:
Glue the seat to the seat supports, keeping the back edge of the seat even with the back of the chair.
Sand the bottom of the legs, if necessary, so that the chair is level and and does not wobble.
Reapply stain to sanded parts, if necessary.
Varnish the wood, or use your favorite method of finishing the wood.
Side Table Assembly Instructions:
Sides:
Glue the spindles between the support pieces, positioning them as indicated in figure 5. The spindles should be centered on the support pieces.
Glue two support pieces between two legs, positioning them as indicated in figure 5.
Repeat for the other side.
Front, Back, and Shelf:
Glue two supports to two edges of the shelf, as indicated in figure 6. Keep the top edges flush.
Glue one edge of the shelf assembly to one side piece, keeping the shelf at right angles to the side. (figure 7).
Glue the other side assembly to the other side of the shelf, and glue the remaining support pieces between the legs, keeping the top edges flush. (figure 7).
Finishing:
Glue the top to the supports, keeping the top centered.
Install the decorative brackets by gluing the crown mouldings to the sides of the legs, under the top of the table.
Sand the bottom of the legs, if necessary, so that the table is level and and does not wobble.
Reapply stain to sanded parts, if necessary.
Varnish the wood, or use your favorite method of finishing the wood.