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HOW TO SEW A "HERBIE" BRIMMED HAT
http://ottobredesign.blogspot.com/2010/04/ottilia-sews-herbie-brimmed-hat-and.html
CUTTING
Crown: Cut exterior crown top and side panels from cotton fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Add 7 mm seam allowances to all edges of panels. Cut crown top and side panels of lining with 5 mm seam allowances.
Brim: Cut curved outer and inner edges of upper brim panels (brim front and back) with 5 mm seam allowances and straight edges with 7 mm seam allowances. Cut lower brim panels (brim front and back) with 7 mm seam allowances.
Label the hat panels by sticking pieces of painter’s tape to their right side, with the name of the panel written on the tape. Copy the pattern markings on the hat panels using notches (notch = a 3 mm deep clip into the fabric edge, placed within the seam allowance). *Note that the pattern piece for the binding strip includes seam allowances and that it is cut on the bias.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams with straight stitch. Stitch all seams with 7 mm seam allowances; thus the lining and upper brim will be slightly smaller and the hat will take its shape more easily. Press seams open and topstitch them on both sides of seamline, placing stitching close to seamline, unless otherwise instructed.
Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns and fuse them to exterior hat panels (cut interfacings with 5 mm seam allowances).
Joining crown exterior: Pin and stitch side panels together, right sides facing. Press seams open and topstitch them on both sides of seamline. Pin and stitch crown top to side panels, right sides together and aligning center-front and center-back marks. Topstitch seam as above.
Joining crown lining: Stitch side panels together, right sides facing, and press seams open. Stitch crown top panel to side panels, right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward side panels and topstitch seam.
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